May 2 - 5, 2006

Karlovy Vary

Sister to our Neighboring City (which does not have baths - but is "by the sea"!)

We see it even when it is not there!

But, you know our intrepid adventurers we'll find "Jewish" items, ideas, and experiences, even when they are not there.

Nobody can accuse us of navel gazing, even of the most devout sort. However, when we see a Pupik in the downtown bus station, we pause to reflect.

Lost in the Star[s]

The Magen David, (✡) מָגֵן דָּוִד Shield (or Star) of David has its origin as a common symbol of Jews and Judaism in Bohemia (now the Czech Republic). It has been reported that Mordechai Maizel was allowed to affix "a flag of King David, similar to that located on the Main Synagogue" to the synagogue he built (commissioned, i.e. the Meisel Synagogue) in 1592. The very large flag (requiring at least six people to carry it) on display in the Altneuschule seems to match this description.

So, what is the significance of the Magen David on the Holy Trinity Column in Karlovy Vary?

Playground of the Rich and Famous

Anything goes in the Czech Republic?

While in Prague Mark noticed that absinthe liquor was available. Since it is illegal in the United States he decided that this was his opportunity to experience the "Green Muse". He even checked with his friend Joe Kissell (instant messaging is a wonderful tool) who gave him a quick update and primer on the drink. However, our activities in Prague did not enable Mark to fulfill his desire (the time and place where it might have happened, the only brand available was the one Joe reported as "undrinkable"). On arrival in Karlovy Vary, he tried again. Bottles of the drink are available on the street. In fact, at the little souvenir stand behind where Debbie stood to take the photo of Mark at the Holy Trinity Column, you could buy many different brands, flavors and bottle sizes. Finally, when we found a bar that serves a suitable brand of absinthe, the waiter did not know how to prepare it properly, just gave us the sugar, the spoon and the drink. Mark finally had part of the experience then.

More interesting than absinthe

Behind the counter were a few people selling the many goods in the booth. The young man's gear intrigued us.

Mark engaged the fellow in a brief conversation after taking the above photo and asked him if he minded Mark's taking his picture... for which he proudly posed.

Wearing clothing such as this is illegal in Germany.

With the help of the text on the cap (Thor Steinar) we were able to do a bit more investigation. If anyone can decipher the text on the shirt, please share what you know with us.

Yet, clearly, certain things are not legal:

So, are there Jews in Karlovy Vary?

We did not meet any local Jews. However, we went to KV because of a tip from a colleague who lives in Israel, David Forman. We have seen photographic evidence that Hassidic Jews came to the area (and to Marienbad) in significant numbers... for the baths. This has been of interest, especially to Mark, who suggests that this is evidence to counter the common conception that Jews are "divorced from their bodies". There are reports that suggest that some (no more than 350!) Jews live in the area now. This, despite the fact that in 1877 Edwin Oels Oppler (about whom we'll learn a bit more when we get to Hameln) designed a synagogue there that held 2000 until it was sadly destroyed on Kristalnacht.

Most of the action in Karlovy Vary is in the river valley
and on the west side of the canyon from which the waters that make the "baths" spring. We found the synagogue in an office building.

It looks as though the left side of the sign above the portico has broken off.

So, while our stay in Karlovy Vary was very enjoyable, the Jewish connection left us feeling a bit incomplete.

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