Friday night services at Rue de Copernic, a liberal congregation, began at 6:00 and ended at 7:00. We were allowed to enter after the security guard asked us a number of questions in Hebrew, including what we were doing there and were we carrying anything sharp. The Bat Mitzvah girl led Kabbalat Shabbat but that was it. She was not expected to do anything on Shabbat morning. Once again it was easy to follow the service though the baritone Cantor's melodies were slightly different from ours. Apparently this synagogue has closer ties to the Orthodox, is more in the halachic mode with regard to much, including the role of women (though there was no mechitzah).
At Gesher, the next morning, we had met a couple of families who joined because they could not have a Bat Mitzvah at Rue de Copernic or they did not like the status of women there.
We arrived at Kehilat Gesher, the World Union for Progressive Judaism, Anglophone congregation in Paris led by Oregon born Rabbi Tom Cohen. Though we had email contact with him, we did not meet him as he attended the Hanover WUPJ conference that Shabbat.
Rabbi Tom Cohen had suggested that since he would be away and his lay people would be running the service, they might need help. We were indeed curious and not sure what they might need. We arrived early and were warmly welcomed by Jennifer, American born from Maryland, (now) international editor for the Red Herring. Her husband was at the Hanover conference as well. We visited a bit, said hello to some of the other folks, met a woman whose mother lives in Coronado (San Diego) and another whose route to join Kehillat Gesher was via our classmate and colleague, Rabbi Jeff Summit, the Hillel Rabbi at Tufts. It seems that they have things under control, though we hear them juggling something, actually. checking to see who's handling which aliyah and Torah reading. In the end we lead the davenning, as they don't quite feel comfortable doing it. Despite the slight differences in their minhag/custom i.e., they have a little chant when taking out and returning the Torah to the ark, standing at the beginning of the service, sitting between Barchu and Shema,; however several of the melodies we shared ( such as Avot, Gevurot, V'shamru, Aleinu). They read a few things in French, we all read a little in English. Mark and I did try to give them a taste of Mi chamocha, Adonai Sfatai and Modim a la Debbie Friedman and Craig Taubman. We even sang Jhosh Friedmand's Rtzei. They were a happy bunch with good humor about their responsibility to lead the service and to support each other. Their enthusiastic participation made us feel very welcome and appreciated. We all exchanged business cards, visited cordially and shared a significant amount of Israeli Kiddush wine. By the way, we learned that the congregation recently celebrated its 13th anniversary and this was the first time the lay people had responsibility for leading services...and we showed up to help out.
We wish we had taken a group photo, but we were too busy enjoying each others' company! You can imagine the group photo here.
Lucked out/locked out again: On Shabbat morning, March 18, I (Debbie) wanted to stay in bed as usual, but headed for the shower. Luckily the cold woke me up. I proceeded to organize my shower, clean clothes in the sink area across the way, towel and soap with me in the locked shower area where you have to press the button repeatedly for the hot water, but it is hot. I do my thing, wash my hair for Shabbat, get ready to go across to the sink area to finish getting dressed, etc., but I cannot unlock the shower door to get out. I jiggle . I try it each way... and cannot get it to move. Check the door to see if I might be able to crawl underneath. Nope, not enough room. Fortunately, the attendant hears me. She tries to unlock the door. She cannot do it. She quickly says something in French which I understand to mean that she will have to go to get the men. In the meantime, I keep trying, hope I've understood what she said and that help is on the way. I spend time brushing my hair... and... finally the janitor unlocks it. What a way to start the day.
Then, our last night in Paris, desperate to try to reach Marion Phillips, trying a pay phone finally, we almost couldn't get out of that...
Our cell phone has been a real pain. If you've tried it and not gotten through, we apologize. Soon, we will be complaining to the company.
I should say that people have overall been very kind--from the offers of samples in the chocolate stores to the responses to our requests for directions. On the Metro on the way back to our "comping" we took the wrong train but didn't know it until Mark asked the woman sitting near us. Not only did she then ask someone else what we should do, but she came up the stairs with us, double checked with the station attendant and made sure we were on the right train once again.
We arrived at Kehillat Gesher, the World Union for Progressive Judaism, anglophone congregation in Paris led by Oregon born Rabbi Tom Cohen.( Grew up, we think, at Daniel Isaacs Congregation, Neve Shalom, and he's a UJ/JTS grad) Though we had email contact with him, we did not meet him as he attended the Hanover WUPJ conference that Shabbat. We arrived about half an hour early. Since we couldn't get in, we looked for a place to sit and drink tea. At the corner we walk into a restaurant, L'Improviste. The owner? waiter? looks at us and jokes in French that we seem to need coffee. We order a coffee and a tea. They bring us also small croissant and pain du chocolate.. We talk. Mark has met his match in a happy, engaging person. We get ready to leave and he won't take money. Then we realize that they are not really open for breakfast. They just let us in to let us drink. WOW!
Rabbi Tom Cohen had suggested that since he would be away and his lay people would be running the service, they might need help. We were indeed curious and not sure what they might need. The second time knocking on the door, we were warmly welcomed by Jennifer, American born from Maryland, international editor for the Red Herring. Her husband is at the Hanover conference as well. We visited a bit, said hello to some of the other folks, met a woman whose mother lives in Coronado and another whose route to join Kehillat Gesher was via our classmate and colleague, Rabbi Jeff Summit, the Hillel Rabbi at Tufts. It seems that they have things under control, though we hear them juggling something, actually checking to see who's handling which aliyah and Torah reading. In the end we lead the davenning, as they don't quite feel comfortable doing it. us to lead the service. Despite the slight differences in their minhag/custom i.e., they have a little chant when taking out and returning the Torah to the ark, standing at the beginning of the service, sitting between Barchu and Shema; however several of the melodies we shared ( such as Avot, Gevurot, V'shamru, Aleinu). They read a few things in French, we all read a little in English. Mark and I did try to give them a taste of Mi chamocha, Adonai Sfatai and Modim a'la Debbie Friedman and Craig Taubman. They were a happy bunch with good humor about their responsibility to lead the service and to support each other. Their enthusiastic participation made us feel very welcome and appreciated. We all exchanged business cards, visited cordially and shared a significant amount of Israeli kiddush wine.
Chocolate touring in Paris proved to be fun (hopefully not fattening) and a great way to see different parts of the city. The chocolate thing here is pretty interesting altogether. Hot chocolate is made from pieces of choc and is very rich. The stores are really serious about the history of chocolate and its health benefits. Many of them are beautifully designed as is the packaging for the products. The stores also carry sauces, marmalades and confitures...some more products that others. At one of the fancy spots we sat for an hour before Shabbat services Friday night at the Rue De Copernic synagogue. Mark ordered a coffee and promptly took a nap. I ordered a Bacchus hot chocolate with rum and whipped cream. mmmm, very rich and very satisfying.
Services at Rue de Copernic, also a liberal congregation, began at 6:00 and ended at 7:00. The Bat Mitzvah led Kabbalat Shabbat but that was it. Once again it was easy to follow the service though the baritone Cantor's melodies were slightly different from ours. Apparently this synagogue has closer ties to the Orthodox, is more in the halachic mode with regard to much, including the role of women. At Gesher, we had met a couple of families who joined because they could not have a Bat Mitzvah at Rue de Copernic or they did not like the status of women there. We had found a lovely Lebanese restaurant and shop called Noura, in the area, and enjoyed a lovely Shabbat dinner there.
Shabbat day, after services, we went back to the Left Bank to explore. We found a school for maternity for Anne.