Sunday 14 - Thursday 18 of May, 2006

Re-Opening Some Circles

Last day in Amsterdam, last day of the trip!!

We awoke early to leave the campsite and drove into Amsterdam to pick up the luggage we had stored at the B & B. We parked there and packed up all of our delicious souvenirs (too many of course--next time: no souvenirs), cleaned out the van, decided what to give away, left the newly packed luggage at the B & B and returned the van before our 2:00 PM deadline.

For comparison's sake:

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That went very smoothly fortunately. It was a relief to have turned it in in time and without major damage, other than what we've already reported. Gerty seemed to take us via the longest way to get there though.

Three Museums In A Day

Another Moving Sho'a Memorial

We hurried (taking two trams and walking… we'd learned our way around a bit) to the Hollandsche Schouwburg [This Web site is quite good.], the Dutch memorial to the Jews at the deportation site.…. again with the list of names. The name of every Amsterdam Jewish family deported is etched in glass on large panels in what at one time was the lobby of a theater. We found our families' names:

Others had brought the customary pebbles and the candles we had seen in Poland on Easter.

To mark the site of the theater, stood a pillar monument, with the partially destroyed, bare, walls of the old theatre. Upstairs, above the "lobby" were displays about Jewish life in Amsterdam. Again, it is amazing to consider that even in 1942, Jews were having babies and getting married, as depicted in the exhibit. "davka" despite everything.

Recognition of Resistance to the Nazis

The Dutch Resistance Museum around the corner, caused us to wonder whether Dutch resistance was greater and whether there are other museums about resistance. We don't remember seeing any other museums in our travels. The resistance of the Dutch really was quite widespread in the population, as exemplified by the general strikes (there's even a monument to the dock strikers, nearby). This museum really is also worth seeing. It was there that Mark recognized the name Gerrit Van Der Veen. He decided to "open the circle" by taking a "portrait of the day" in front of the sign of the school near where we'd been staying.

A little research turns up a few more museums to resistance:

Through Van Gogh to Rembrandt and Caravggio

Finally, we rushed by foot and tram to the Van Gogh Museum to see the Rembrandt-Caravaggio exhibition, the first time the works have been shown together, despite the fact that Rembrandt was very influenced by Caravaggio through his teacher.... Debbie comments that Caravaggio really has stronger colors and outshines the Rembrandt, though all are quite beautiful and use similar themes. Mark was more intrigued by the location of the light sources in Rembrandt's work as well as what he felt was the greater emotional drama of the way in which Rembrandt depicted some of the same scenes as Caravaggio.
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We saw what used to be called The Jewish Bride, the poster of which we had bought when we went through Amsertdam on our way to Isarel a week after our wedding

Mark was thrilled by the opportunity to look into Rembrandt's eyes (an early portrait he can't find on the Web where the eyes are simply black spots, not the carefully delineated optical openings usually painted).
Mark thinks he found a spelling error (or "typo") in the Balthazar's Banquet painting

It appears that what should be a final nun (in God's hand): ן is a ז.

A Last Supper

Then on to find our "final restaurant for dinner". We wanted to eat at a highly recommended veggie restaurant. We even had an address, but after roaming the street and asking several people who sent us in all directions, we finally learned that it had closed. We ended up at another veggie place for yummy food and headed back to the B & B… but…

What, No Map?!

Our B & B was off the map of the downtown area and we did not have that map at hand. Mark navigated, going in the appropriate, approximate direction, recognizing some of the landmarks we had driven past earlier in the day when we "mistakenly" drove through, rather than around town to return the van. We asked in a hotel not far from our area… and as usual, they had a map for us. We were, by then, only a few hundred meters from our destination. We arrived with enough minutes of twilight to take our portrait, finish off a few minutes of packing (and, low and behold, the map was in the backpack we'd been carrying), and do our final closing ritual of sharing our ten favorite moments of the entire trip.

On Thursday we awoke early, had breakfast, took a cab and spent the next approximately twenty-four hours in transit.

Home Sweet Home

At home we put all our luggage in one place. Yes, that's all it was for ten weeks... and went to bed.

In the morning (through blurry eyes) we looked at the piles of mail that had accumulated over the previous ten weeks (it could fill our luggage!).

Next year in Africa, Israel, and who knows!!


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