After the intensity of the previous seven weeks of traveling, we took three days of walking the lovely forest trails.
But, you know our intrepid adventurers we'll find "Jewish" items, ideas, and experiences, even when they are not there.
Nobody can accuse us of navel gazing, even of the most devout sort. However, when we see a Pupik in the downtown bus station, we pause to reflect.
The Magen David, (✡) מָגֵן דָּוִד Shield (or Star) of David has its origin as a common symbol of Jews and Judaism in Bohemia (now the Czech Republic). It has been reported that Mordechai Maizel was allowed to affix "a flag of King David, similar to that located on the Main Synagogue" to the synagogue he built (commissioned, i.e. the Meisel Synagogue) in 1592. The very large flag (requiring at least six people to carry it) on display in the Altneuschule seems to match this description.
So, what is the significance of the Magen David on the Holy Trinity Column in Karlovy Vary?
Before leaving France we skirted Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Monte-Carlo. Karlovy Vary had it's heyday as a watering spot in the previous century. Statues abound to Schiller, Dvorak, Beethoven, Chopin, and someone not usually identified with that crowd:
While in Prague Mark noticed that absinthe liquor was available. Since it is illegal in the United States he decided that this was his opportunity to experience the "Green Muse". He even checked with his friend
More interesting than absinthe
Behind the counter were a few people selling the many goods in the booth. One young woman spoke quite decent English, a young man did not. His gear, however intrigued us.
Mark engaged the fellow in a brief conversation after taking the above photo and asked him if he minded Mark's taking his picture... for which he proudly posed.
Wearing clothing such as this is illegal in Germany.With the help of the text on the cap (Thor Steinar) we were able to do a bit more investigation. If anyone can decipher the text on the shirt, please share what you know with us.
Yet, clearly, certain things are not legal:
Oddly, the poster in Czech we found in Prague where English speakers abound. The ones in English we found in Karlovy Vary where the primary second language is Russian (as well as the text of the most common tourist maps).
We did not meet any local Jews. However, we went to KV because of a tip from a colleague who lives in Israel, David Forman. We have seen photographic evidence that Hassidic Jews came to the area (and to Marienbad) in significant numbers... for the baths. This has been of interest, especially to Mark, who suggests that this is evidence to counter the common conception that Jews are "divorced from their bodies". There are reports that suggest that some (no more than 350!) Jews live in the area now. This, despite the fact that in 1877 Edwin Oels Oppler (about whom we'll learn a bit more when we get to Hameln) designed a synagogue there that held 2000 until it was sadly destroyed on Kristalnacht.
When we arrived, we were able to pick up a local map. Mark noticed a Magen David off to the upper right. So, before we settled in, we took a drive around town to see what we could from the van. We could not get to the location on "Mozartova" where the building with the Magen David was marked (due to the many one way streets). We did, however see signs down in the "canyon" indicating conflicting directions for where we'd find a synagogue.
Most of the action in Karlovy Vary is in the river valley
and on the west side of the canyon from which the waters that make the "baths" spring. On one of our long walks through the hills and around town we worked our way over to the east side of the canyon and down Bezrucova looking for the synagogue. We found "it" in an office building (as circled in red on the left side of the map).
It looks as though the left side of the sign above the portico has broken off.
So, while our stay in Karlovy Vary was very enjoyable, the Jewish connection left us feeling a bit incomplete.
